http://www.key-to-nonferrous.com/default.aspx?ID=CheckArticle&NM=154

http://www.esab.ca/ca/en/Education/Knowledge/QA/How-does-welding-affect-the-HAZ-of-the-weld.cfm

Remove the wheels and place the frame (drive side facing you) on a non-slip surface (carpet) up against a wall for support. With your left foot on the chainstays, hold the socket head (I’m using a Nashbar BB socket) firmly in place with your left hand, and push down on the breaker bar with your right hand clockwise (yes, we’re removing the drive-side first). Lean into the breaker bar and you should hear a crack as the bottom bracket gives way. Once the drive side is loose, go at it with the non-drive side, only this time, pulling up on the breaker bar while resisting with downward pressure on the chain stays with your left foot.

So why remove the drive side first? Personally, I do it this way for the following reason:
I once had to tackle a rusted/seized BB. I used a 350lb/ft air gun on the non-drive side. No go. After nearly ripping the lockring teeth to shreds with the airgun, I decided to have a go at the drive side. Bingo. Once the drive-side came out, the non-drive side was less reluctant.

Actually, my plan is to turn the bike into a folding fixed-gear, so that I can travel with a bike that I like. I’d also like to set it up for bad weather, since my IRO is not the ideal candidate for fenders or wider tires. In any case, changes will be made!