The Very Best Bike Locks
by Jamie Carruthers
Jamie Carruthers recently launched Lock Your Bike, a site dedicated to securely locking your bike to help ensure your trusted steed is where you left it. Lock Your Bike covers bike theft news, reviews of the best bike locks and a guide to the best methods of locking your bicycle.
As cycling becomes more and more popular in urban areas, in part due to improvements to cycling infrastructure such as the rapid expansion of bike lanes in NYC, bike crime is also seeing an increase. London recently saw a 71% rise in reported bike theft which is made up of a mixture of opportunity thefts (poorly locked bikes) and organized gangs with bike spotters, look outs and industrial tools.
If you want to keep your bike, and I’m pretty sure you do, you firstly need two good locks. You will need a primary lock for securing your frame and back wheel, and a secondary lock for securing the frame and front wheel. Both locks should also lock to a bike stand or other suitable piece of street furniture. Any less than two locks and you become a much easier target.
A slightly depressing realization is that no lock is unbreakable. If a thief takes a fancy to your bike, they can get it given they have the tools and knowledge to break your locks, and the time.
You will hear many who cite the rule of spending 10-20% of the value of your cycle on locks. I disagree with this and suggest you spend as much as you can afford. Sometimes a rust-bucket bike worth $150 can mean as much to someone as a $1,500 road bike does to another–and you can cut through some $15 locks with scissors.
Good locks and a good locking technique do two things; provide a visual deterrent, and resist attempts to break or cut through them.
Primary Locks
In tests, D locks (also known as U locks) came out best against a whole host of tools. Here are the three very best:
Kryptonite New York Fahgettaboudit Mini
If the double deadbolt mechanism and ridiculously thick 18mm shackle made of hardened steel isn’t enough to deter a thief, nothing will. The lock is small, making it tricky to fit your wheel, frame and an item of street furniture in, but the lack of excess space makes it tough for a would-be thief to try a leverage attack or squeeze a bottle jack in. It is heavy, with a weight of approx. 1.9kg or 4.2lbs and is best transported in a bag.
Price: approx. $90
Abus Granit Extreme 59
Touted by the manufacturer as ‘probably the toughest D lock money can buy’–it’s certainly the most expensive I could find. All good locks are heavy, but this tips the scales at approximately 3kg or 6.6lbs! The shackle is slimmer than the Fahgettaboudit (16mm vs. 18mm) but performed just as well in the tests. It is also larger than the Fahgettaboudit, meaning more room for attaching bike to street feature, but the weight of this thing would make Mr. T reluctant to carry it around. This is meant for the meanest streets out there.
Price: approx. $210
Kryptonite New York 3000 STD
Another Kryptonite lock makes the cut, and this time the big brother of the Fahgettaboudit. According to Kryptonite, this lock isn’t as strong as the Fahgettaboudit, rated as 11 out of 15 on their own scale of strength, vs. the Fahg’s 12 rating. What this means in real terms, I am unsure. And I doubt it makes a huge difference. This is my lock of choice because of the strength, the double bolt mechanism, the size (making it easy to lock my bike to things) and the mean looking yellow crossbar.
Price: approx. $60
These locks all come with anti-theft protection from the manufacturer, where they will give you an impressive amount of dollars should your lock be compromised. I can’t help but be cynical about this having read through the terms and conditions, and personally wouldn’t see this as any more than a marketing ploy.
Such heavy locks really need to be lugged around in a bag, as the brackets are often inadequate causing rattling. You really only need to carry these beasts with you if you are to be leaving your bike for any length of time.
Secondary Lock
Your secondary lock (yes, remember you need two!) can be lighter and used for those short coffee breaks or where you can keep an eye on it.
For my secondary lock, I use the:
Kryptonite Evolution Mini
This lock is awesome. A favorite among the bike messengers and cool kids, it fits easily in to the back pocket or through a belt loop and with a weight of just 0.9kg (approx. 2lbs) is much more portable than the heavy locks mentioned above. This lock has a single bolt mechanism and a 13mm shackle with a rating of 9 out of 15 on Kryptonite’s scale. It isn’t as strong as the beasts above, but it isn’t meant to be. This lock does its job perfectly.
Price: approx. $50
Couple your locks with a robust locking technique and hopefully the thieves will go for a less secure bike, and I see quite a few of these everyday. See Lock Your Bike’s guide on how to lock a bike for more.
Thanks for the rundown. I want to remind people that there’s another way to protect your bike – lock it up in public less often and for shorter periods of time by planning ahead before taking trips. Also, look into the possibility of bringing your bike inside at work and school.
What is your take on using a heavy duty chain and a u-lock?
I always thought since different tools are required to open each, that it would be even more secure.
For a secondary lock, a rear wheel lock such as the AXA Defender is a much better choice. Virtually every bicycle in Denmark and The Netherlands is equipped with one.
One came as factory standard equipment on my Pashley. Very convenient. I use it when I can keep an eye on my bicycle. That and a Kryptonite U-lock is my “going shopping” locking solution.
For details, see:
http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=35&product_id=49
Hi Jamie -
Good reviews & advice. I used to have lockyourbike.co.uk registered for my blog at http://lockyourbike.wordpress.com/ I’m not posting there much at all now, so I let the domain go – available for £8.99+VAT from easily if you want it.
Good luck!
Karl.
Having two types of locks is often given as advice, as it would require two different types of tools.
The problem is that portable angle grinders are a lot more common now, and they would make quick work of a chain or cable.
U-locks offer the best resistance to a range of tools, including angle grinders (they can be cut, but generally hold out a lot longer) and the top U-locks can’t be bolt-cropped.
That is why I recommended two U-locks rather than two different types!
Hi Karl, thanks for the heads up! I have bought the domain.
Hi,
I live in the UK and use a Kryptonite evolution short pattern and an Abbus bracelet type lock on my bike.
I jambed the evolution lock (my fault), so as a matter of interest took it to the work shop to see how hard it was to break open – I could not open it.
I replaced it the next day for another and use it on my GT Tanseo Ultra everyday – I still have the bike to date!
I had a really old beat up walmarty beater bike locked up in a fairly public space with the Kryptonite New York Fahgettaboudit Mini, and the thieves got to it without any problems. I also live in New York (Queens). But I agree with Thomas, if you need to leave your bike outside keep it to a minimum amount of time especially in New York.
Sorry to hear you lost your bike Min Choi. Did they leave the lock or take it with them?
Was there any indication of the tools they used? I would imagine they had an angle grinder.
Angle grinders cut through locks very quickly. I wonder if there isn’t a way to engineer the shackles so that the grinder wheels would tend to disintegrate when cutting through them, maybe a core of a different material, or else a design which causes the wheel to vibrate uncontrollably.
We sell Lockstraps on our site. Their design is excellent and I believe a good value. We get lots of praise for bikes and motorcycles being saved as thieves tried to get them yet failed after working on the Lockstrap. The heat treated 8 braided interior cables combined with the strapping materials offer a belt ande suspenders strategy requiring the thieves to have a good tool chest at hand and lots of time to foil the design and the two combination locks on either end. The strapping can embrace multiple bikes or other toys, adding more value.
http://www.e-bikefun.com
Another lock rating site:
http://www.soldsecure.com/search?name=bike
tOM
The only bike I park and lock is an older Specialized Hardrock which is my grocery-getter. I leave it at one of the racks at a shopping center where I know the store greeter/security guard and they are aware of it sitting out there.
Since they are watching it, I could probably get away with not even locking it, but I have a heavy cable/padlock combination that I use and I also strip the computer, lights and even the quick-release saddle off of it when I leave it.
My other bikes are either secured in a conference room at work or are in the family room at home.
Axa Defender locks and plug-in cables and chains are available in the United States through Cantitoe Road: http://www.cantitoeroad.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=103
Locking through the frame as well as the rear wheel is redundant. The late Sheldon explains:
“People tend to buy the big clunky U-locks because they don’t know how to use them properly. A U-lock should go around the rear rim and tire, somewhere inside the rear triangle of the frame. There is no need to loop it around the seat tube as well, because the wheel cannot be pulled through the rear triangle.
Some will object that felons might cut the rear rim and tire to remove the lock. Believe me, this just doesn’t happen in the real world. First, this would be a lot of work to steal a frame without a useable rear wheel, the most expensive part of a bike, after the frame. Second, cutting the rear rim is much harder than you might think. Since the rim is under substantial compression due to the tension on the spokes, it would pinch a hacksaw blade tight as soon as it cut partway through. Then there are the wire beads of the tire, also difficult to cut.”
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/lock-strategy.html
@Jamie Carruthers there was nothing left of the lock at all, no trace. i’m not too upset about bike, since it was a beat up beater… i was a bit more surprised they targeted it. and I’m more flabergasted about the lock, i guess since i used such a highend lock, the Kryptonite New York Fahgettaboudit Mini they figured the bike must’ve had some value.
Bought a couple of Knog’s “Kabana” bike locks based on Knog’s marketing claim that “their Fiber Armor helps deter Bolt Cutter attacks”. Decided to use a cheap pair of Chinee bolt cutters to put one of the Knog locks to a test. Boy was I surprised, the Knog “fiber armor” cut like HOT Butter in July, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=up9r9kU7MUY . While the colors are cool, the silicone does feel nice and squishy, the theft deterrence of this lock is minimal.
Moral of the story – Buyer Beware when it comes to securing bikes with cable locks.
I have been looking for locks to secure my premium bike. Buyers beware of Axa Defender locks. They can be opened easily & extremely fast with a nail cutter. Not worth it. 2 U locks & 1 cable lock seem to be a good choice? Please share your experience. Plus should you recommend a lock, check if it can’t be opened easily on the net. Thanks.
Another great trick is to have the crappiest bike you have ever seen. I dont even have to lock my bike up anymore because no one wants it.
I used to believe that too. Then someone stole my bike.
I’ve been thinking of buying a bike and have been looking at bikes parked out on the streets to see how they are locked. Based o what I’ve seen, many bikes had the U lock and a cable on, but after reading this website, my understanding has changed; I will use two U locks.
Another thing I have been curious about is the registration system with the police. I come from Japan, probably similar to the UK, where you can register your bike with the national police system and if it gets stolen and turns up in a different part of the country, the police can let you know (you need to pick it up yourself). Not all stolen bikes are probably recovered, but I found it pretty efficient. I wonder if there is such system like that in the US. The NYPD do comment that on their website, but do not say how you can actually register nor do other bike related organizations in NYC. Is it because such registration is just uncommon practice in the United States?
I would love to hear someone’s thought on this.
I have been curious the registration system with the police. I come from Japan, probably similar to the UK, where you can register your bike with the national police system and if it gets stolen and turns up in a different part of the country, the police can let you know (you need to pick it up yourself). Not all stolen bikes are probably recovered, but I found it pretty efficient. I wonder if there is such system like that in the US. The NYPD do comment that on their website, but do not say how you can actually register nor do other bike related organizations in NYC. Is it because such registration is just uncommon practice in the United States?
I would love to hear someone’s thought on this.
I have been riding my Bike Friday to work everyday, carrying it inside to the lab where I work evenings. Every once in a while security would harass me..I usually carried the bike in, and I never argued with them.
The manager of the lab has no problem with me bringing the bike in and despite the multitude of carts, some from outside vendors, I’ve been told that the bike is not allowed because it is a bike. I was told that if I apologized to security maybe i would be able to bring the bike in folded up. I thought I would take a humble step and apologize, but I don’t feel I have anything to apologize for…If I were wheeling it in on two cart-like wheels, all would be well. This tells me that the bike is visually offensive.
I recently biked in Scotland and although the roads were less conducive to bicycling, the people respected the bicyclists as fellow commuters and I actually found the environment to be more conducive. I was given the excuse “what if everyone wanted to bring their bike in.” I think everyone who wants to bike to work is bringing their bike in, meaning only me. An easy solution is for me to ride my old beater bike to work. It just seems so unnecessary and the product of a prejudiced environment that we tolerate.
Many of these D or U locks with the cylinder type lock (the key is tube shaped) can be opened easily with a plastic ink pen barrel. Check youtube before you make a buying decision.
I wish I had a better solution, but I don’t.
Happy cycling
^^^^^ That information above (from justin) is many years out of date, and really no-one should pay any attention to it, as Kryptonite solved that issue with new mechanisms.
A large resource for cycle locks and locking methods, and including newly invented ways of locking is on LFGSS.com (Locks That Work thread) http://www.lfgss.com/thread17938.html
I had a kryptonite ulock of some kind on my ladies bike and she lost the key. In 08 I gave it three good licks with a hammer on the straight bar….pop. couldn’t cut th metal period but hitting that straight bar was cake.
Kryptonite cable combo lock was pried with something like a screw driver. Bike stolen. This has happened twice. No more combo cables for me…
So ulock was easy and cablecombo was easy….? I don’t know what to do now :-\
I use the Sheldon method and have had good success with it. Stronger, thicker wheels will make it more difficult to cut through them. I don’t know how I’d live in a big city having to carry two unlocks around all the time.
I’ve thought of the same thing and then thought that these lock manufacturers must have already thought of this…right? I mean a U lock witha tungsten core or glass…something that attacks a grinder wheel and it would be alost un breakable.
personaly, I use an OnGuard Bulldog mini and park it in very visible areas and not for long periods. Regarding the lock, I really like it, similar to the Evo mini but slightly bigger and features the double bolt mechanism as opposed to a single/bent foot. Its also cheaper. In my neck of the woods its often parts that are stripped and no lock stops that but then we don’t have pros like NY with portable drills/grinders…not yet.
I love the idea of a lock rundown on what works best. But. It doesn’t look like the reviewer actually used any of these locks. Anytime our reviews include “according to the manufacturer” we’re walking a pretty dangerous line of just doing free PR.
Would love to but Transit does not allow bikes on the sky train at rush hour
A nice list of great bike locks that are rated and links of where to acquire them!
http://www.lfgss.com/thread17938.html
Thanks,
Anonymoose
I usually use 3 locks.
a 12 Rated Kryptonite U Lock, An ABUS steel-o-flex x-plus 1050 and this really cool new lock that locks your frame and both wheels at the same time.
It’s called a TiGr (pronounced tie grrr) Lock
Check it out at TiGr Lock dot com, Best part it weighs 2LBS!
Sal
Hi.
Some very good reviews and comments, which I have taken note of.
My Specialized Epic which stood me at £2000 was stolen in manchester city centre (england) yesterday. I left it locked up with a cable clock and a kryptonite flex lock. With it being in the centre with plenty of shoppers and CCTV, 2 offenders were spotted on CCTV (conveniently the zoom quality was poor) 6 minutes after I left it. I was absolutley horrified to see it gone and the lock in pieces (bolt cutters) and no one saw a thing… Gutted cause i have taken order of a lapierre zesty and was due to sell the epic next week. My bike insurance just lapsed and light in the pocket as a result. I definately looking at getting the Kryptonite M18 new york lock. Plus following the advice of getting a 2nd lock. First time i had taken the bike into the city. Never again!
Orange Schwinn Super Sport from 1972 stolen today from 47th St. between 6th and 7th Ave.
Had two locks on it. A Kryptonite messenger lock and chain and a cable lock. They cut through them both and left the lock in tact. Chain, lock and cut link were found at scene.
Had that bike since I was in 6th or 7th grade. So long now I’m not sure. Almost 40 years. Breaks my heart but I knew it was a possibility but rather than have it collecting dust I used it every day. It was locked on scaffolding. Most ironic thing is that NYPD have terrorist check point for trucks going into Times Sq. right there where I left the bike. In other words cops are within 10 to 20 yards of this spot every day all freakin day. Crime right under their noses. Unbelievable.
If anyone gets wiff of this bike you can reach me at paddymyke@comcast.net.
The article helped ma to find a good bike lock. Thanks to the author. I finally decided to get a double loop security cable, the Kryptonite KryptoFlex.
It also has a great price tag.
More details at: http://best-gear.org/kryptonite-kryptoflex-38-x-7-double-loop-security-cable-720018210610-1007/